It’s complicated, my aunt died 3 years ago and left her humble cottage in the hills of Languedoc near Lodève, to her best friend. I, singing at her life celebration in Hampstead was generously invited to return to the stone cottage when free. This is the 4th trip since sitting with my aunt in a coma three years ago. She rotated her hands balletically in her state-of-the art hospital bed only to die two days after my visit. Now her ashes watch from a meadow over-looking the property. It is too shocking to admit how many years have gone by since our first visit when we drove through France in our student mini via the Dordogne.
View from the terrace
The view from the terrace over the verdant sandstone hills toward the limestone cliffs is stunning. No better way to appreciate the enormity of the limestone geology of the area than visit the Cirque de Navacelles. Even if your husband winces as you circumnavigate every turn, it is still worth it for the giddy view and cold Weiss beer in the café.
Cirque de Navacelles
I am composing every morning, a glorious Gloria. Choral music just slips off my soul, no effort, no fuss. And I read Austerlitz by W.G Seabald, deliciously enigmatic and evocative like a Northern limbed Proust, full of reflectiveness and implausible connections sparked by an artistically chaotic and factual mind.
For the experience of death, said Evan, diminishes us, just as a piece of linen shrinks when you first wash it.
Austerlitz: W.G Sebald
Day two of our composing retreat and I am on a roll especially on a soul felt movement for soprano. Diana, my dead aunt in ash form watches from a field above the glorious terrace with its stunning view.
Lac De Salagou
Day 3 is more enigmatic and frankly a mistake. Up the limestone cliff behind Diana’s cottage lies Lerab Lynge, a Tiebetan Buddist temple and the promise of a meditation day. But it’s boring because rather than mostly meditate, the majority of the time is taken up with two men answering narcissistic questions on meditation!
Inside the temple
A naughty white Magnum from the gift shop overlooking the temple slightly picks me up but my heart is now siding with the locally exterminated Cathars circa 12/13th century and their gnostic view of spirituality which puts one’s own experience at the centre of spiritual engagement. I mean am I really prepared to accept arbitrary explanations of how many minutes of meditation work? I am left too tired by the non - experience to compose today so return to my blog and Sebald who coincidently talks in depth about many grand buildings that I know: Antwerp Station, Palais de Justice in Brussels and Liverpool Street Station in London which was built over the site of Bedlam. Sebald , suggests that big buildings express the insecurity of their organisations. This observation is Interesting in relation to all the cathedrals being built when the Cathars, whose beliefs were a threat, were exterminated.
Lerab Lyng, Languedoc
Day 4: The Cathars and Knights Templars were a big presence in Languedoc before being exterminated. Did you know that Wagner visited Rennes Le Chateau near Beziers and Carcassonne just before he started composing Parsifal? Some believe the Holy Grail is buried in Rennes Le Chateau. On a personal note, curiously here is Richard Leigh who Michael and I used to serve in the Belsize Park Deli where we worked part time when we had just left the Royal College of Music. Leigh was part of the cohort of three men who wrote the book Holy Grail, Holy Blood, the precursor to the Da Vinci Code. Curious coincidence that Leigh appeared most days to always order a corn beef and corn salad sandwich. Anyway, I am re-reading Holy Grail, Holy Blood in the context of this area.
Richard Leigh
Today’s work on Gloria went very well, I will have a good 15 minutes of the work mostly completed by the time I return to UK. It is interesting composing for string orchestra which I have now segmented like Vaughan Williams in to the main orchestra and a string quartet. This will be my last setting of a Christian religious text for a while as we are moving out of the Lady Chapel in Ely to West Road Concert Hall in Cambridge next year and the following year to Cadogan Hall in London, very grand but necessary to build my product. Also, I want to develop a more Universal choral work for Cadogan Hall and I began this integration this year by infusing my Magnificat with two poems by Rumi. This afternoon there was thunder in the mountains, very exciting as we walked up to Diana’s field.
Day 5
Light rain and an exploration of the village Les Plans. I discover an enticing path down to the valley below, probably constructed when the castle was built in the 12th/13th century. There is an overwhelming scent of honeysuckle and softly caressing intermittent rain.
The path downwards
Hidden corners
Here the structure under my aunt’s cottage, the foundations of the castle.
The Kitchen with my aunt’s hat still in place
Day 6 and the composing retreat is nearly at an end but I wake up early and after a power walk, I decide to compose an entirely new opening movement for the Gloria as well as re-ordering my musical material. I now have over 20 minutes of rough score for a 45 minute work , not bad going for a 6 day retreat. Then I recap the opera I was working on last year and realise that it was going nowhere! Final two swims in Lac De Salagou. I love it here.
Lac De Salagou
Back home to Norfolk with Tristan